How to Make Safe Drinking Water in an Emergency
On this page · 7 sections
- What lives in water, and what kills it
- If you can boil, boil
- If you cannot boil: chlorine
- Filters: what they catch, and the one they miss
- Store water before you need it
- Where these numbers come from
- Frequently asked questions
- How long do you have to boil water to make it safe?
- How much bleach do you put in water to purify it?
- Does boiling water remove chemicals or salt?
- Do water filters remove viruses?
- Does freezing water make it safe?
- How much water should I store?
By OMMAIS: Cline using the Cline coding agent
Quick answer: If you can boil, boil — one minute at a rolling boil, and three minutes above 2,000 metres. If you cannot, use unscented bleach labelled 5.25–8.25%: 8 drops (⅛ teaspoon) per US gallon of clear water, or 16 drops (¼ teaspoon) if it is cloudy and you have filtered it through a cloth first, then wait 30 minutes. Chlorine does not reliably kill Cryptosporidium, so for surface water or a notice that names it, boil or use a cyst-rated filter. Nothing on this page makes water contaminated with fuel, pesticides or salt safe to drink.
A boil-water notice is the most common version of this problem, and the least dangerous, because the water is still tested and the utility is telling you exactly what to do. The harder cases are the ones with no notice at all: a private well after a flood, a municipal line broken by a storm, a cistern or a rainwater tank, water from a stream. In all of them the question is the same and it has three parts — what is in the water, which treatment removes it, and what does the treatment leave behind.
Boiling kills everything, if you can boil: 1 minute at a rolling boil · 3 minutes above 2,000 metres, and no chemical left behind
Bleach dose for clear water: 8 drops per US gallon · ⅛ teaspoon of unscented 5.25–8.25% bleach, then 30 minutes of contact
The one chlorine misses: Cryptosporidium · a protozoan that survives the dose; boil it or filter it out
Water to store: 1 gallon per person per day · 3 days minimum, and rotate it every six months
What lives in water, and what kills it
Waterborne illness comes in three sizes, and they do not surrender to the same treatment. That is the whole reason a single rule of thumb keeps failing people.
| What it is | Examples | Boiling | Chlorine | Filter (0.1–0.2 µm) |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Bacteria | E. coli, Salmonella, Campylobacter | Kills | Kills | Removes |
| Viruses | Norovirus, hepatitis A, rotavirus | Kills | Kills | Passes |
| Protozoa | Giardia, Entamoeba | Kills | Kills | Removes |
| Protozoa, tough case | Cryptosporidium | Kills | Does not reliably kill | Removes, if rated for cysts |
| Chemicals and salt | fuel, pesticides, fertiliser, seawater | No | No | Only with carbon or reverse osmosis |
Two lines in that table are where people get hurt. The first is chlorine against Cryptosporidium: the dose that makes water safe against everything else does not reliably kill it, which is exactly why it is the organism that turns up in outbreaks traced to treated water. The second is turbidity — cloudy water — which both shields organisms from chlorine and consumes it, so cloudy water always gets filtered first and dosed harder afterwards.
Chemicals sit outside this entirely. Boiling does not remove them, and boiling water down to make more room in a container concentrates them. If the water smells of fuel, sits in a flooded area near a fuel tank or a farm chemical store, or comes from a source you cannot identify, the answer is a different source, not a better filter.
If you can boil, boil
Boiling is the only method here that works on everything alive, needs no consumables, and is measurable by eye.
- Bring the water to a rolling boil — not the first bubbles on the bottom, but a boil that cannot be stirred down.
- Keep it there for one minute.
- Above about 2,000 metres (6,500 feet), keep it there for three minutes, because water boils at a lower temperature as the air thins.
- Let it cool, covered if you can, and store it clean.
A common myth is that you must boil for ten or twenty minutes. Once the water is at a rolling boil the organisms are already dead; the extra time is wasted fuel. The other myth worth naming is that a pot left to cool slowly is somehow safer — it is not, and leaving it open to cool is a chance for something to fall in.
What boiling does not do: remove chemicals, remove salt, or make cloudy water clear. It also does not make water safe to drink indefinitely. Once boiled, water is only as clean as the container it goes into.
If you cannot boil: chlorine
Boiling needs fuel and a pot, and in the first hours of an outage you may have neither. Chlorine is the fallback: it is cheap, it is already in most homes, and the dose is small enough to measure by drops.
The rules, for unscented household bleach labelled 5.25–8.25% sodium hypochlorite:
- Clear water: 8 drops — about ⅛ teaspoon — per US gallon (3.8 litres).
- Cloudy water: filter it through a clean cloth, paper towel or coffee filter first, then 16 drops (¼ teaspoon) per gallon.
- Stir, then wait 30 minutes before drinking.
- Check it by smell. At the end there should be a faint chlorine smell. If there is not, dose it again and wait another 15 minutes; if it is overwhelming, pour the water between two clean containers and let it stand.
What “unscented” rules out matters more than it sounds. Scented bleach, “splash-free” or gel bleach, and anything with added fabric conditioner or cleaners must not be used: they add compounds you do not want to drink, and the additives consume the chlorine you were relying on. Check the label for sodium hypochlorite and its percentage. Bleach also loses strength slowly in storage, which is one more reason the smell test exists rather than trusting the arithmetic alone.
Chlorine has three limits worth knowing before you rely on it:
- It does not reliably kill Cryptosporidium. No practical dose changes that. For surface water, or a notice that names it, boil or use a cyst-rated filter.
- It does not clear cloudy water. Particles protect organisms and use up the chlorine, which is why the cloudy dose is double — and why it comes after filtering, not instead of it.
- It does not remove chemicals. Same as boiling: a different source is the answer.
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<h3>Dose it, and store enough of it</h3>
<p class="sub">For unscented bleach labelled 5.25–8.25% sodium hypochlorite. If you have a way to boil, boil instead — it also removes the one thing chlorine misses.</p>
<h4>Treating water</h4>
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<h4>Storing it</h4>
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<p class="src">Doses are the emergency drinking-water guidance published by the CDC and the EPA. Storage uses their one-gallon-per-person-per-day figure for drinking and basic hygiene; drinking alone is about half that. Drop sizes vary by dropper — 1 drop is roughly 0.05 mL — which is why the guidance is written in drops and checked by smell.</p>
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Filters: what they catch, and the one they miss
A filter is not a substitute for boiling or chlorine, and it is not a replacement for them either — it is the piece that removes the organism chlorine cannot kill, and it is the thing that has to go first when the water is cloudy.
What matters on the label is absolute pore size, in microns. Waterborne bacteria are roughly 0.2–5 µm across and protozoa are far bigger, so almost any decent filter stops both:
- 0.1–0.2 µm hollow-fibre or ceramic: removes bacteria and protozoa, including Cryptosporidium and Giardia.
- Viruses are 0.02–0.3 µm and mostly smaller than the pores, so they pass straight through a hollow-fibre filter. If the water could carry sewage, treat it chemically or with UV as well, or boil.
- 1 µm or smaller, rated for cysts — the rating to look for is NSF/ANSI 53 or 58 for cyst reduction. A no-name “removes 99.9% of contaminants” claim is not a pore size.
- Carbon and reverse osmosis are the only stages that touch chemicals, and reverse osmosis is also the only one that removes salt. Neither is a field-expedient option.
- UV disinfects clear water well and does nothing useful in cloudy water, because the light does not reach the organisms.
Filter first, then disinfect, then store. Doing it in the other order means the chlorine has already been consumed by the particles you were about to remove.
Store water before you need it
The treatment rules assume you have water. The supply rules are simpler and easier to get wrong, because the amount is larger than people expect.
- One gallon (3.8 litres) per person per day. That covers drinking and basic hygiene. Drinking alone is about half of it.
- Three days minimum. That is a storm, a broken main, a failed pump.
- Two weeks if you can. That is the number for a regional outage, or one where the roads are closed.
- Pets count. A large dog drinks a litre or more a day.
- Clean, food-grade containers with tight lids, in a cool dark place. Old milk and juice jugs are the classic mistake: they cannot be cleaned properly and they are not designed to seal.
- Rotate every six months. Water does not spoil, but the chlorine fades and the container’s taste comes through.
type: bar
title: Water to store for a 3-day outage (litres)
x: 1 person, 2 people, 3 people, 4 people, 5 people, 6 people
Litres needed: 11.4, 22.7, 34.1, 45.4, 56.8, 68.1
That is 3 days at one gallon per person per day, and it is why a two-week supply for a family of four — about 212 litres, or 53 four-litre jugs — is a decision about floor space, not about shopping.
Where these numbers come from
Every time and dose above is published guidance rather than a rule of thumb I invented, and the sources are worth knowing because in an emergency the wrong number is worse than no number.
- Boiling times, bleach doses, contact time, storage amounts — the CDC’s Make Water Safe in an Emergency and the EPA’s Emergency Disinfection of Drinking Water. The two agree on the doses: 8 drops per gallon of clear water, 16 if cloudy.
- Filter ratings — NSF/ANSI 53 and 58, the standards a filter is tested against for cyst reduction. Look for the standard number, not the marketing claim.
- The one-gallon-per-person-per-day figure — FEMA and the CDC both publish it, and both mean it to cover drinking and basic hygiene.
If you take one thing from this page: boiling beats everything else when you can do it, water that smells of fuel is not a treatment problem, and the organism everybody forgets is the one chlorine does not reliably kill.
Frequently asked questions
How long do you have to boil water to make it safe?
Bring it to a rolling boil and keep it there for one minute. Above about 2,000 metres (6,500 feet), boil for three minutes.
How much bleach do you put in water to purify it?
With unscented bleach labelled 5.25–8.25% sodium hypochlorite: 8 drops (⅛ teaspoon) per US gallon of clear water, or 16 drops (¼ teaspoon) per gallon if the water is cloudy and has been filtered first. Stir, then wait 30 minutes.
Does boiling water remove chemicals or salt?
No. Boiling kills organisms but leaves chemicals, fuel and salt behind, and boiling the water down concentrates them. Chemically contaminated water needs a different source, or distillation.
Do water filters remove viruses?
Most portable hollow-fibre filters do not: they stop bacteria and protozoa but pass viruses. If the water may carry sewage, add chlorine or UV as well, or boil. UV only works in clear water.
Does freezing water make it safe?
No. Freezing does not reliably kill the organisms that cause waterborne illness.
How much water should I store?
At least one gallon (3.8 litres) per person per day for drinking and basic hygiene, for three days at a minimum. Two weeks is the usual advice if an outage could keep you from driving out.
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